Tailor-made India Holidays

Time difference: GMT+5:30 (all year)

Flight time: 9-10 hours (direct flight from London)

Currency: Indian rupee (INR/₹)

Language: Hindi, English

Electricity: 230 V, 50 Hz (round two-pin plugs; occasionally round three-pin plugs)

Telephone code: +91

Tipping: Rewarding good service is expected. Many upmarket restaurants include a service charge on the bill; elsewhere it’s usual to leave up to 10% or at least round up the total. Many hotels have a central tip box – 200 rupees per person per night is fair – and it’s also customary to tip your guide and driver in the range of 500-700 rupees and 400-600 rupees a day respectively. Coins and small notes are helpful for porters (aim for 20-50 rupees a bag) and toilets (60 rupees). 

Etiquette: Your experience of India will be significantly enhanced by sticking to a few basic, if sometimes irksome, rules. The most important of these are: dress conservatively, men as well as women – bare shoulders and legs are considered very racy; avoid public displays of affection; remove your shoes when entering temples and people’s homes; don’t touch your food or mouth with your left hand (it’s considered unclean, for good reason); wash your hands before and after meals; and be sensitive about where you point your camera, particularly in places of worship. Ask permission before you take any pictures and expect to pay for the privilege of caturing real Indian life. Professional beggers are not uncommon so it is advised to not engage with them as even a polite no can be seen as encouragement. Expect to be asked all sorts of questions about yourself by complete strangers, and feel free to reciprocate – it’s not considered nosey.  

Religion: Religion is an integral part of India’s culture. Almost 80% of the population are Hindus and throughout India you will see intricately carved temples where offerings are made on a daily basis. Muslims worship at Jama Masjid, a huge mosque in the centre of Delhi and The Taj Mahal is a mausoleum with scriptures from the Koran etched into its marble walls. The Golden Temple at Amritsar is a pilgrimage site for Sikhs, whilst Buddhists head to the Himalayas where fluttering prayer flags line the route to the colourful monasteries.

Visas: You can look up the latest advice on https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/india/entry-requirements. Please be aware that this information can change at short notice.

Vaccinations: Health risks vary depending on the destination so it’s essential to check the specific vaccination and hygiene requirements for India on the NHS Fit For Travel website.

India’s climate is generally tropical, except in the mountainous regions of the north, though there are regional variations. Overall, the best time to travel is from October to March; it’s mostly dry, the daytime temperatures are pleasant and you might even need a light sweater in the evening and early morning. From April to June, it can be uncomfortably hot and increasingly humid as monsoon season approaches; this is a prime time to visit the Himalayas and its foothills. Spring is a great time for spotting tigers in India, between February and mid-May. As temperatures increase, long grass dies back and the animals are drawn to rivers and watering holes, which increases your chances of a sighting. The heavy monsoon rains sweep across the country from around the middle of June to the end of September, making it tricky to get around, and many national parks close.

Travelling by train in India is not just a way of getting from A to B; it’s a cultural experience in itself. The vast railway network covers most of the country, carrying a staggering 23 million people every day. Delays may be frequent, but somehow it all still works – and the extra time on board allows you to bond with your fellow passengers and let the cries of the tea, coffee and snack sellers soak into your consciousness. Some journeys are more of an event than others, however. That’s definitely the case with the aptly named Palace on Wheels – a luxury trip through Rajasthan – and the country’s three World Heritage-listed mountain railways.

The fatalism of Indian drivers and unusual obstacles such as cows in the road makes driving yourself around inadvisable. It’s also unnecessary, as hiring a car with a driver is relatively inexpensive and means you can stop whenever you want; it’s also the most comfortable choice if you’re heading into areas that aren’t served by the railway. If you’re tempted by the idea of cruising around in an atmospheric white Hindustan Ambassador – based on the 1950s Morris Oxford – it’s worth knowing that the suspension isn’t its strongest point.

A growing number of cities – including Delhi and Mumbai – now have modern metro systems. Otherwise, taxis and auto-rickshaws are good value, especially if you check that the meter is working or agree on a fee in advance. Visitors sometimes feel uncomfortable about using cycle rickshaws and, in Kolkata, hand-pulled ones; if you boycott them, however, the drivers are missing out on a valuable source of income. In quieter areas, hiring a bicycle to get around far-flung sights can be a sensible option.

It can be tempting to try to cram in as many destinations as possible by using domestic planes. India, though, rewards slow exploration, so you’ll enjoy it more if you scale down your plans and stay on the ground. If you’re heading to the Andaman Islands, of course, you’ve no choice but to fly.

Step into any British supermarket or high street and you’ll see the evidence of the UK’s love affair with Indian food – or our version of it, at least. It’s only when you’ve travelled around the country that gave us our favourite curries that you realise there’s so much more to the cuisine than chicken tikka masala. There’s the rich, mild and creamy Mughal court dishes of the north, the fiery vegetarian meals of the far south, the tangy Portuguese-influenced food of Goa, and a host of other regional variations. That diversity is particularly apparent in the thriving street-food scene, where every state has its local specialities, from Hyderabad’s stuffed green chilli fritters to the savoury puffed-rice mixes of Kolkata.

When it comes to alcoholic drinks, the laws about who can sell it and at what age they can drink it vary from state to state, and some are completely ‘dry’, though as a visitor you should have no difficulty in laying your hands on a cold beer. Small family run hotels and homestays often do not have a liquor licence. However, you can bring your own alcohol, and your driver guide will be able to assist you with purchasing the alcohol of your choice at a local store. In such a hot place, where it’s vital to keep up your fluid intake, soft drinks are your true friend. There’s nothing quite as refreshing as a nimbu pani – essentially, soda water with lime – though yoghurt-based concoctions such as lassi run it a close second. There’s a high chance you’ll also develop a taste for the ubiquitous chai: sweet milky tea flavoured with spices.

The hardest thing about shopping in India is holding back when there are so many covetable things to buy – that, and the general lack of fixed prices. Bargaining is consequently a fact of life, so it helps to brush up your skills. As a general rule, begin with halving the first price you’re quoted, and work up from there until you reach a level both sides are happy with. If that all sounds too stressful, look out for the shops run by the various state governments and other official bodies, which have good selections of regional products at clearly marked prices.

Thanks to India’s long-established and thriving craft tradition, you’ll find a wealth of beautifully handmade goods on your travels, from sandalwood carvings of Hindu gods and goddesses to block-printed fabrics, exquisitely painted papier–mâché boxes and embroidered cashmere shawls. Look out, too, for factory-made items such as sturdy tiffin carriers – stacked metal lunch boxes that are an eco-friendly alternative to plastic.

On a practical note, credit cards are not widely accepted, particularly outside the major cities, so always carry some cash in a mix of denominations.

The sheer number of Hindi deities, gurus and spiritual leaders, let alone the holy days of all the other religions that are represented in India, means that you’re bound to stumble on a joyfully loud celebration at some point in your journey. There are a few major holidays that are marked around the country every year. Holi, which marks the start of spring in March, is a glorious free-for-all where people try to cover everyone within reach in vividly coloured powders and water. If you’re planning on joining in, wear your oldest clothes and protect your hair, particularly if you’re blond. The Hindu ‘festival of lights’, Diwali, is an atmospheric five-day affair in November and – aside from the fireworks – more serene.

An impressive range of events take other aspects of India’s rich and diverse cultural heritage as their focus. Some, such as the Pushkar Camel Fair in November, are firmly on the tourist radar. Others are less well-known, from Kerala’s snake-boat races in July to Varanasi’s program of Indian classical music and dance held every April.